A 13-module personal wealth dashboard with embedded JavaScript calculators. Net worth tracker, cash flow, asset allocation, budget worksheet, goal setter, emergency fund, debt payoff, retirement readiness. Single HTML file. Runs offline. Owned forever.
À la carte value at catalogue rates: $397+. Yours for $77 because we'd rather have you in the operator community than maximise this transaction.
Net worth = assets minus liabilities. Run this once a quarter. The trajectory matters more than the number — a rising line at any starting point beats a falling line at any starting point.
| Asset | Value (USD) |
|---|---|
| Cash & checking | |
| Savings & high-yield savings | |
| Investment accounts (taxable) | |
| Retirement accounts (401k / IRA / super) | |
| Primary residence (current value) | |
| Investment property | |
| Vehicles (current resale) | |
| Business equity / private holdings | |
| Other assets | |
| Total Assets | $0 |
| Liability | Balance (USD) |
|---|---|
| Credit card balances | |
| Personal loans | |
| Auto loans | |
| Mortgage (primary) | |
| Mortgage (investment) | |
| Student loans | |
| Tax owing | |
| Other liabilities | |
| Total Liabilities | $0 |
Income minus expenses equals surplus or deficit. Track monthly. The surplus is what builds wealth; the deficit is what unwinds it. Most personal finance failures are not income failures — they're cash flow visibility failures.
Where is your money currently sitting, and where do you want it sitting? Drift between target and actual is normal — review quarterly, rebalance annually or when drift exceeds 5%.
| Asset class | Target % | Actual % | Drift | Action |
|---|
Three budgeting frames. 50/30/20. Pay yourself first. Zero-based. Pick the one that fits how you actually behave with money — not the one that sounds disciplined in theory.
50% needs · 30% wants · 20% savings + debt repayment.
Move savings/investing on payday — before anything else hits. The simplest discipline that works at scale.
Every dollar gets a job. Income minus all assignments = 0. Best for people whose budget keeps drifting because there's "no plan for the rest."
Specific savings goals with timelines and monthly targets. The math removes the wishful thinking — what does this goal actually require, in dollars per month?
Most people miss savings goals because they have one savings account doing five jobs. Each goal gets its own account / bucket. When your eye sees "House Deposit: $5,000 / $50,000," the next contribution feels concrete. When it sees "Savings: $42,000," the next contribution feels optional.
3–6 months of essential expenses, in cash, in a separate account. Boring. The most underrated personal-finance asset because it lets every other decision be made calmly instead of in panic.
Snowball (smallest balance first — emotional momentum) vs Avalanche (highest interest first — math optimal). Both work. Pick the one you'll actually follow through on.
Order debts smallest balance to largest. Pay minimum on all, plus everything extra to the smallest. When it's gone, roll its payment into the next smallest. Wins compound emotional momentum.
Order debts highest interest rate to lowest. Pay minimum on all, plus everything extra to the highest-interest one. When it's gone, roll its payment into the next-highest-interest one. Mathematically optimal.
Where are your investment dollars actually allocated, across which accounts, with what return profiles? A simple snapshot — updated quarterly — beats a detailed model updated never.
| Account | Type | Balance | Allocation strategy |
|---|---|---|---|
"Financial Independence" target = 25× annual expenses (4% rule baseline). Adjust to 28× or 33× for conservative buffer. The number isn't a prediction — it's a useful shorthand for what wealth needs to be doing for you.
Once a year, between Christmas and New Year. 90 minutes. The honest mirror.
Seven personal money rules. Define them once. Read them quarterly. They're the guardrails when markets get noisy or life events crash through the plan.
General concepts only. Tax law varies wildly by country, state, and personal circumstance. None of this is tax advice.
Most countries offer at least one tax-advantaged retirement account: pre-tax contributions (deduction now, tax later) or post-tax contributions (no deduction, tax-free growth + withdrawal). The mechanics differ — 401(k) / IRA in US, RRSP / TFSA in Canada, Super in Australia, ISA in UK, etc.
Concept: filling tax-advantaged accounts before taxable accounts is generally efficient when liquidity isn't an immediate need.
Selling investments at a loss to offset realised gains elsewhere — reducing the tax bill in that year. Specific rules around wash sales / repurchase windows vary by country.
"Tax bracket" usually refers to marginal rate — the rate on your last dollar earned. Effective rate is your total tax / total income, almost always lower than marginal. Decisions based on marginal rate (e.g. RRSP contribution timing) work; decisions based on assuming all income is taxed at the marginal rate are usually wrong.
In most countries, charitable contributions can reduce taxable income — though limits, eligible orgs, and forms vary. Donor-advised funds, qualified charitable distributions from retirement accounts, and direct stock donations have different efficiency profiles.
The thing nobody wants to think about. The thing future-you (and future-your-family) thanks you for. Generic concepts only.
This file is yours. No login. No DRM. No expiry. Save anywhere. Print sections individually. Edit the HTML to customise. Use it for the rest of your financial life.